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Owned by Deborah

Master year-round production in your garden. From KY to FL, engineer high-intensity in any climate. Become a Producer not just a gardener!

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15 contributions to Boxcroft Masterclass in Growth
Drought tolerant flowers
Dry soil is not a problem - it is the preferred habitat of some of the showiest plants alive. Knowing the habitat of your plants is one of the most important rules when gardening. 🌸Flowers That Thrive on Neglect and Dry Soil: - Lavender — Fragrant spikes intensify in dry, lean soil; overwatering causes root rot and leggy, weak growth. (Boy do I know this one from my many failures with it.) - Black-eyed Susan — Prolific golden blooms on tough stems in dry ground; rich moist soil produces floppy plants with fewer flowers - Yarrow — Flat-topped flower clusters hold strong in drought; wet soil leads to mildew, crown rot, and sprawling stems - Sedum (Stonecrop) - Succulent leaves store water and deepen in color under stress; irrigation causes mushy growth and bloom failure - Coneflower — Tall sturdy blooms attract pollinators all summer in dry soil; overwatering weakens stems and invites fungal disease - Blanket flower — Non-stop red-and-gold blooms in poor dry ground; rich wet conditions shorten lifespan dramatically - Russian sage — Silvery stems and lavender clouds thrive in heat and drought; moist soil causes flopping and root death - Catmint — Dense purple spikes rebloom hard after cutting back in dry soil; wet feet cause dieback and sparse flowering - Lantana — Vibrant color clusters bloom heaviest in hot dry conditions; too much water promotes leaf growth over flowers
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Drought tolerant flowers
Goals
I would really like to know what everyone is hoping to gain from this course. I want everyone here to know that I am going to do my best to get you there. So drop a comment below, and let me know what your goals are.
1 like • 1d
@Katie Marie I have not! But I will try them this year.
0 likes • 5h
@Katie Marie where do you order your seed potatoes from?
Sun
Module 6 is dedicated to the effects of the sun and how you as a producer map out your vaults. This is a perfect example of different types of sun exposure that determines which vegetables thrive and which ones bolt, burn, or struggle! - Full sun beds with 8+ hours of direct light are perfect for tomatoes, peppers, and squash-they turn all that energy into delicious fruit! - Partial sun with 5-7 hours are great for root crops like carrots, beets, and turnips that focus their energy underground. - Partial shade areas with 3-5 hours work well for leafy greens like lettuce, spinach, and arugula that can bolt in too much heat. - Dappled shade under trees with 2-3 filtered hours can still nurture shade-tolerant herbs like mint, parsley, and chives without them becoming leggy. Remember, sunlight is the key factor that decides whether your plants struggle or thrive!
Sun
My Garden "Ghost": The Student who won't graduate... 🎓👻
I have a confession to make. We all have that one plant that humbles us, and for me, it’s Bupleurum. Honestly, Bupleurum is notorious! It’s the "Student" that refuses to graduate no matter what I do. Even seasoned flower farmers treat it like a temperamental houseguest that won't leave, but also won't help with the dishes. Since we talk a lot in this group about the "Sprinters, Students, and Marathoners" concept, I’ve officially labeled Bupleurum the ultimate "Special Needs Student." It has such a specific set of biological triggers that if you miss even one, you’re left with a tray of dirt and zero germination. I’ve tried the deep freeze, the total darkness, direct fall planting and the cool soil tricks... and yet, my graveyard is full of them. Now I want to hear from you: 1. Who is the "Special Needs Student" in your garden? That one plant that requires a 5-page manual just to get it to sprout? 2. Or, has anyone here actually conquered Bupleurum? If you’ve managed to get this one to graduate, please drop your "Soil Fixer" secrets below and save me from my own frustration! Let’s troubleshoot our most stubborn plants together. 👇
0 likes • 2d
@Judy Hobson if they are blooming they should be producing. From what you’ve explained to me, your trees are at least three years old. They can shed their blossoms up to five years, but on newer Trees, that’s kind of unlikely. Could you possibly send me a picture of your set up? Oh and what zone are you in?
1 like • 1d
@Katie Marie I’ve had great success with Dahlias over the years, and I’m happy to share my method. Back when I ran my cut flower business in Zone 6, digging them up was a necessity. I would spread the clumps out on the driveway and give them a thorough washing to ensure all the dirt was removed, then leave them to dry completely. For storage, I placed them in plastic totes filled with vermiculite. It’s crucial to cover them entirely so they don't dry out. I rarely separated my clumps unless absolutely necessary, as I was always concerned about damaging the "eyes." Once the ground warmed up in the spring, I’d plant them back out. In Zone 8, you can likely leave yours in the ground, provided the winter isn't too wet. However, keep an eye out for critters! Dahlia tubers are edible, and many garden pests find them delicious. I'd recommend checking on them periodically for any signs of chewing. I’m planning to grow Dahlias here in Florida and am hoping to leave them in the ground this time—honestly, digging them up every year was quite a chore! I wish you the best of luck and look forward to hearing how yours progress.
Yep!
https://www.facebook.com/share/r/17z3HVqXmQ/?mibextid=wwXIfr
1 like • 2d
@Katie Marie I guess if we are going to have an addiction this is at least a good one.
1-10 of 15
Deborah Wyatt
3
25points to level up
@deborah-wyatt-5742
I have been farming raised beds for years. I want to teach you how to do the same! https://www.skool.com/boxcroftmasterclassingrowth/about

Active 4h ago
Joined Dec 13, 2025
New Smyrna Beach Florida
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