@Jason Millsap I started with a few inexpensive sensors so I could see what the system was actually doing instead of relying only on how the rooms felt. The tools I used were: - Govee temperature and humidity sensors - TempPro Bluetooth temperature and humidity sensors - Ecobee thermostat data - Beestat for runtime and temperature tracking - Infrared thermometer and thermal camera Based on what I found in my own house, I would start inside the conditioned space before doing much in the attic. First, remove the supply registers and return grilles and seal the gaps between the metal boots and the drywall. Those openings can leak conditioned air into wall cavities or pull hot, humid air into the house. Next, check the bathroom exhaust fan. Make sure the housing is sealed to the ceiling, the backdraft damper works, and the duct is actually connected and vented outdoors rather than dumping into the attic. After those items are addressed, then move into the attic and inspect the ductwork. Sharp flex-duct bends, kinks, compression, sagging runs, loose connections, and poorly supported duct can all significantly reduce airflow. Flex duct should be pulled reasonably tight and should not be forced around sharp turns. For sensor placement, I would put one near the main return, one in the room farthest from the air handler, and one in any room that feels warm or has weak airflow. I also used ChatGPT to analyze the exported sensor, thermostat, and Beestat data together. It helped me compare room temperatures and humidity, system runtime, cooling rates, and performance before and after each repair. The key is to make one change at a time, document when it was made, and then collect enough data afterward so you can compare the results rather than guessing. A 3-ton unit in a 1,200-square-foot house makes me suspect an airflow, return-air, ductwork, or envelope problem before assuming the equipment is too small.