Short answer: No — Microsoft is not removing Copilot entirely. What is happening is Microsoft is pulling back or changing where Copilot appears, depending on the app and license. What’s actually changing right now - Windows 11 apps: Microsoft has started removing some Copilot buttons/branding from apps like Notepad, Snipping Tool, Photos, and Widgets. In some cases the AI features stay, but the dedicated Copilot button is going away or being renamed (like “Writing tools”). - Microsoft 365 / Office apps: Starting April 15, 2026, Microsoft is removing Copilot Chat from inside Word, Excel, PowerPoint, and OneNote for many users who do not have a paid Microsoft 365 Copilot license. That means it may “disappear” from those apps unless the user/org has the proper license. - Microsoft 365 Copilot mobile app: Microsoft is also changing the mobile app to be more AI-first, and some old file-browsing/editing features are being removed from that app and pushed to the separate Word/Excel/PowerPoint apps instead. Bottom line Copilot is being reduced, repositioned, and paywalled more — not killed. Microsoft is still actively shipping new Copilot features in Microsoft 365, including deeper in-app editing and new agent features. In plain English If you’re asking because you noticed it’s “gone”: - Personal Windows user: they may be removing the obvious Copilot button, but AI may still be there under another name or in another place. - Business / Microsoft 365 user: if Copilot vanished from Word/Excel/etc., it’s very likely a licensing change, not a full removal. -

Linux is a good alternative when you want to keep older hardware useful, avoid Windows 11 replacement pressure, or need a stable, low-cost, less-bloated system for browsing, email, office docs, media, or tech work. For you specifically—since you do a lot of fresh installs, cleanup, remote support, and extending machine life—Linux can be a very smart “save the machine” option on certain client PCs if the app compatibility is right. Short answer Linux is a good alternative when: - The PC can’t run Windows 11 - Windows feels bloated / slow - You want to keep an older laptop or desktop alive - The user mostly needs: web browsing email YouTube documents Zoom/Meet (browser) basic printing/scanning - - You want fewer background nags / ads / OEM junk - You don’t need Windows-only apps Best times Linux makes sense 1) The PC is too old for Windows 11, but still physically fine This is one of the best Linux use cases in 2026. If a machine has: - decent battery or desktop power - working screen/keyboard - SSD - 8GB+ RAM ideally - still stable hardware …but: - unsupported CPU / TPM issue - no official Windows 11 support 👉 Linux can give it years more useful life. Great example: - 6th/7th gen Intel laptop - 8GB RAM - SATA SSD or NVMe - still physically decent That’s often a perfect Linux candidate. 2) The user only does “browser life” If the person mostly uses: - Gmail / Outlook web - YouTube - Facebook - banking - online shopping - Google Docs / Microsoft 365 web - Zoom in browser - PDFs - basic file storage Linux can work really well. For these users, the OS matters less than: - browser stability - fast boot - simple updates - fewer popups 3) Windows is slow, cluttered, or unstable on low-end hardware Linux is often better on: - older laptops - low-end mini PCs - machines with weak CPUs - systems that got crushed by Windows updates / OEM junk Especially if the Windows machine has:

The right time to buy a new PC is when your current one is costing you time, causing reliability issues, or can’t stay secure/up to date—not just when it “feels old.” In 2026, the biggest hard line is that Windows 10 support ended on October 14, 2025, so if a machine can’t run Windows 11, that alone is now a very strong reason to replace it (or retire it from internet-facing use). The short answer Buy a new PC when one (or more) of these is true: - It can’t upgrade to Windows 11 - It’s slow enough to waste your time daily - It has frequent crashes / blue screens / weird errors - The battery is bad (for laptops) and replacement isn’t worth it - It runs hot / loud constantly - Repairs are getting close to the machine’s value - Your work needs changed (more tabs, more apps, remote support tools, bigger files, AI, video, etc.) Microsoft’s own “time for a new PC” guidance specifically calls out signs like: - Can’t get the latest updates - Noisy fan - Battery doesn’t last - Frequent PC errors / blue or black screens Biggest 2026 reason: Windows 10 is done If you’re still on Windows 10: - Windows 10 support ended October 14, 2025 - Microsoft says to move to Windows 11 for ongoing security and features - Microsoft 365 apps on Windows 10 keep getting security updates only through October 10, 2028, but Microsoft still strongly recommends upgrading the PC/OS to avoid reliability/performance issues over time Practical rule: If your PC cannot officially run Windows 11 That’s one of the clearest signs it’s time for a replacement. For the kind of client-facing / remote-support work you do, I’d treat that as a business risk, not just a convenience issue. Best real-world signs it’s time to replace your PC 1) It’s costing you time every day If it: - takes forever to boot - stalls opening Outlook / browsers - chokes on remote tools + tabs + Office - drags during updates - hangs during backups / OneDrive sync …that lost time adds up.

If you’re buying a printer in 2026, the big thing is to choose based on what you print most, not the sticker price. The most important buying criteria are cost per page, printer type (laser vs tank inkjet), whether you need scan/copy, and how often you actually print. For most people: laser = best for black-and-white documents, tank inkjet = best for color/photos without expensive cartridges, and cheap cartridge printers are usually the most expensive long-term. Consumer Reports and RTINGS both still emphasize text quality, graphics/photo quality, and running costs as the main factors. Best overall If you mostly print: - Documents / invoices / labels / forms → buy a monochrome laser - Color docs + occasional photos → buy a tank inkjet (EcoTank / MegaTank / Smart Tank) - Lots of photos → buy a photo-focused tank printer - Rarely print and just want cheap upfront cost → buy a cheap all-in-one, but expect higher ink cost That Brother model is a strong “safe” choice because it gives you: - Print + scan + copy - Fast black-and-white output (up to 36 ppm per listing) - Wireless + USB + Ethernet - Auto duplex - Better long-term sanity than bargain cartridge inkjets if you’re doing normal business/home paperwork. Best for cheapest long-term color printing Why this is smart: - MegaTank means refill bottles instead of cartridges - Listing claims up to 6,000 black / 7,700 color pages per ink set - Great for: home office color docs occasional flyers school/home use moderate photo use - This is usually a much better value than a cheap $50–$100 cartridge printer if you print more than lightly. Best for simple black-and-white only Why: - Monochrome laser - Up to 30 ppm - 250-sheet tray - Wireless + USB - Great if you print: invoices shipping labels forms estimates checklists - For a tech/business workflow like yours, this is the kind of printer that usually causes the fewest headaches. Best low-hassle color all-in-one for home

When buying a phone, focus on carrier compatibility, battery life, storage, camera quality, software support, and repairability/value—those matter more day-to-day than raw specs. If you want the shortest rule: buy the newest phone that fits your budget from a major brand, with at least 128GB storage, good battery reviews, and years of updates. Consumer Reports says it evaluates phones on core basics like battery life, display performance, and overall usability, which is exactly the right mindset when shopping. Best overall (what most people should prioritize) If you’re shopping without a specific model in mind, think in this order: 1) Carrier compatibility (first thing) - Make sure it works with: Verizon / AT&T / T-Mobile Your MVNO (Mint, Visible, US Mobile, Cricket, etc.) - - Unlocked is usually best if you want flexibility - Check: Physical SIM vs eSIM only (important on newer iPhones) 5G band support - Big mistake: buying a “cheap unlocked phone” that technically powers on but doesn’t support your carrier well. 2) Battery life (more important than people think) Look for: - All-day battery in real use - 4500–5000mAh on many Androids is a good sign - Efficient chips matter as much as battery size Examples from current listings: - Google Pixel 10 128GB lists a 4970 mAh battery. - Google Pixel 10 Pro lists 4870 mAh. - Motorola Moto G Power 5G 2024 highlights battery-focused positioning with a 5000 mAh battery. - Restored Apple iPhone 16 and Apple iPhone 16 Plus emphasize improved battery life in Apple’s current generation. If you’re doing field work / house calls / remote support like you do: battery and fast charging should be near the top of the list. 3) Storage: don’t cheap out Minimum I’d recommend: - 128GB minimum - 256GB is better if you: Take lots of photos/video Download offline maps/music Keep years of texts/apps Use the phone for work - Avoid: - 64GB unless it’s a very cheap secondary phone