The Loaf and the Lie (The UK Contribution)
I have just read Henry's book, ‘The Loaf and the Lie’. It chimed with me because, in the U.K., we have our own, home-grown version of this crime against food, and I have had a bee in my bonnet about it. It is called the Chorleywood Baking Process and it was developed in the early 1960s by scientists at the British Baking Industry Research Association. They originally hoped that it would enable small, independent bakers to compete with industrial giants. However, the CBP enables the use of cheaper, lower protein wheat and it was seized upon by the factory owners and lead to the near eradication of small bakers in the U.K. The Chorleywood Baking Process is described as a high-speed, no-time, dough system that combines dough mixing and development in a rapid 2-5 minute process. It uses industrial, closed ultra-high-speed mixers to modify dough protein structure, improve gas retention, and reduce fermentation time, while incorporating dough conditioners and additional yeast. Sounds delicious, right? Around 80% of bread in the U.K. uses this process, including supermarket sourdough (seriously). The resulting product has been aggressively marketed using fake claims of healthiness, nostalgia and bringing families together, convincing people that this what bread is. The reality is tasteless, devoid of texture and almost impossible to spread with butter (fake, over-processed butter substitutes are more compatible unsurprisingly). Everything that Henry said about bred is mirrored in the supermarket “bread’ prevalent in the U.K. it scores highly purely because it is cheap, easily available and keeps longer than real bread. The good news is that the U.K. is slowly waking up to the hidden health costs of ultra-processed, industrial, ’faux foods’. The main things slowing the rejection of UPF are cost, accessibility and convenience.