Your backyard eggs are fresher than store-bought—but are you handling them safely? Let’s review the science of egg safety! The Bloom (Cuticle): WHAT IT IS: 🥚Natural protective coating applied during laying 🥚Seals 7,000-17,000 pores in shell 🥚Prevents bacteria entry 🥚Keeps moisture in WHY IT MATTERS: 🥚Intact bloom = longer shelf life 🥚Washing removes this protection! 🥚Why unwashed eggs don’t require refrigeration To Wash or Not to Wash? UNWASHED EGGS: 🪺Bloom intact 🪺Room temperature storage: 2-3 weeks 🪺Refrigerated: 3+ months 🪺Wash just before using WASHED EGGS: 💧Bloom removed, pores open 💧MUST be refrigerated immediately 💧Use within 5 weeks 💧More susceptible to contamination If You Must Wash: ✓ Use water WARMER than egg (prevents bacteria being pulled in) ✓ At least 20°F warmer than egg temperature ✓ Never soak—quick rinse only ✓ Dry immediately ✓ Refrigerate right away Proper Collection: ✓ Collect eggs 2-3 times daily ✓ Discard heavily soiled or cracked eggs ✓ Clean nest boxes regularly ✓ Handle with clean, dry hands ✓ Don’t stack wet eggs Storage Guidelines: REFRIGERATOR: ❄️Store pointed end DOWN ❄️Use egg cartons (prevents odor absorption) ❄️Keep away from strong-smelling foods ❄️35-40°F ideal COUNTERTOP (Unwashed only): 🪺Cool location away from sunlight 🪺Use ideally within 2-3 weeks 🪺65-70°F maximum Freshness Testing: FLOAT TEST: 🥚Fresh eggs sink, lay flat 🥚Older eggs tilt or stand upright 🥚Floating = discard (air cell too large) WHEN TO DISCARD: 🐣Cracked shells 🐣Off odors when cracked 🐣Unusual appearance 🐣Floating in water Your turn: ❓Do you wash your eggs or leave the bloom intact? Why? ❓Refrigerator or countertop storage—what’s your preference? 🥚

So I have a small flock, 4 hens and 1 rooster. Three of the hens I have from the 9 chicks I raised last spring, the others were all taken by predators. One of the hens, Grace, and the rooster, Elvis, are ones I got from a neighbor a couple months ago, and they are both about a year older than my other hens. Grace disappeared a couple weeks ago, so we assumed she had also been taken during the day by a predator. She had started to isolate herself from the flock because of the other hens would bully her. But yesterday, in the middle of the day, she showed up in the coop. I was shocked to say the least. Then, later in the day she disappeared again….I looked everywhere around the coop and walked the woods behind where the coop is and I couldn’t find her anywhere on the ground or up in trees. So, where could she be going? Why is she not returning to the coop at night? Is she potentially broody and trying to hatch out eggs? Where would she go to do that? I want to try to find her and put her with the new chicks in a separate coop from the other hens to keep them from picking on her. For context, we live on 10 acres of mostly dense Florida forest, consisting of mostly pine trees, but also oaks and clusters of palm fronds. I took a video of her so my husband would believe me that she came back lol

“My chickens have never had grit and they’re fine!” Let’s talk about what grit ACTUALLY is and why it matters for proper digestion. What IS Grit? Small, hard, insoluble stones that chickens store in their gizzard to grind food mechanically. Think of it as their “teeth” - because they don’t have any! Two Types - Don’t Confuse Them! INSOLUBLE GRIT (True Grit) 🪨Granite, flint, or commercial poultry grit 🪨Stays in gizzard permanently 🪨Grinds whole grains, seeds, fibrous material 🪨Slowly wears down and must be replaced SOLUBLE GRIT (NOT True Grit!) 🐓Oyster shell, limestone 🐓Dissolves quickly in digestive tract 🐓Provides CALCIUM, doesn’t grind food 🐓Does NOT substitute for insoluble grit! Do Chickens NEED Grit? YES if they eat: 🐤Whole grains (scratch, corn, wheat) 🐤Vegetation, grass, weeds 🐤Seeds, bugs with hard shells 🐤Anything fibrous or tough MAYBE NOT if: 🐥Fed ONLY commercial pellets/crumbles (already processed) 🐥No access to pasture or whole foods 🐥But access doesn’t hurt! How It Works: Food enters gizzard → muscular contractions → grit grinds food into paste → nutrients can be absorbed in intestine Without grit, whole grains pass through partially digested = wasted nutrition! Free-Range Myth: “My chickens free-range, so they find their own grit!” Maybe - depends on your soil! 🪨Rocky areas?Probably fine. 🏝️Sandy/clay soil? They may need supplemental grit. Best Practice: Offer free-choice insoluble grit year-round. Chickens self-regulate - they’ll eat what they need! Your turn: ❓Do you provide grit, or rely on free-ranging? 🪨 ❓What’s the most random thing you’ve seen your chickens pick up thinking it was grit? (Legos? Rocks the size of golf balls?) 😂

Feathers aren’t just for looks - they’re a window into your flock’s overall health and nutrition! Let’s learn to read the signs. HEALTHY Feathers Look Like: 🐓 Smooth, glossy appearance 🐓 Full, complete coverage (no bald patches) 🐓 Intact barbs (feather strands “zipped” together) 🐓 Proper color for the breed 🐓 Clean, not matted or dirty What POOR Feather Quality Indicates: RAGGED, BROKEN FEATHERS 🪶Protein deficiency (feathers are 80-85% protein!) 🪶Overcrowding/excessive pecking 🪶Poor perch design causing damage DULL, LACK OF LUSTER 🪽Nutritional deficiency (vitamins A, E, or biotin) 🪽Parasite load (mites/lice) 🪽General poor health SLOW FEATHER REGROWTH 🪶Inadequate protein during molt 🪶Deficiency in sulfur-containing amino acids (methionine, cysteine) 🪶Chronic stress or disease ABNORMAL COLOR/PIGMENTATION 🪽Nutritional deficiencies 🪽Exposure to certain toxins 🪽Liver disease EXCESSIVE FEATHER LOSS (outside molt) 🪶External parasites 🪶Stress (feather pecking, bullying) 🪶Hormonal issues 🪶Disease FRAYED OR “FAULT” BARS 🪽Horizontal lines across feather 🪽Indicates stress/illness during feather development 🪽Shows timing of stressor PIN FEATHERS NOT EMERGING 🪶Nutritional deficiency 🪶Severe parasite infestation What Feathers Need: 🐔High-quality protein (especially during molt!) 🐔Adequate vitamins (A, D, E, biotin) 🐔Essential amino acids 🐔Clean environment (reduces feather soiling/damage) Pro Tip: Check feathers regularly during handling. Changes often appear before other symptoms! Your turn: ❓What does your flock’s feather quality look like right now - gorgeous or “rough around the edges”? Feel free to share so pictures 😊 I know some of our hens are coming through their molt, so rough can be completely normal for the season😊

One of THE most common diseases in poultry - every chicken keeper needs to understand coccidiosis! What IS Coccidiosis? A parasitic disease caused by Eimeria protozoa that damage the intestinal lining. There are multiple species, each affecting different parts of the intestine. The Life Cycle: 1. Bird ingests oocysts (parasite eggs) from contaminated environment 2. Oocysts hatch in intestine, multiply rapidly (4-7 days) 3. Damage intestinal lining → bleeding, poor nutrient absorption 4. New oocysts shed in droppings (MILLIONS per bird!) 5. Oocysts sporulate (become infective) in 1-2 days in warm, moist conditions 6. Total cycle: 4-7 days - spreads rapidly through flock! Age-Related Risk: 🐥Highest risk: 3-6 weeks old (peak susceptibility) 🐤Moderate risk: 6-12 weeks (still developing immunity) 🐔Lower risk: 12+ weeks (usually have immunity) 🐓Adult birds typically immune but can be carriers Clinical Signs: 🐔Bloody or mucoid diarrhea 🐔Lethargy, huddling, ruffled feathers 🐔Pale combs/wattles (anemia) 🐔Poor growth in young birds 🐔Decreased appetite 🐔Sudden death in severe cases Prevention Through Management: Coccidia is natural everywhere, but these management practices can keep load down so disease does not occur. ✓ Keep bedding DRY (moisture = oocyst survival!) ✓ Reduce overcrowding ✓ Clean waterers daily ✓ Remove wet/soiled bedding immediately ✓ Good ventilation ✓ Minimize stress Natural Immunity Building: Low-level exposure during 3-12 weeks naturally builds immunity Treatment Options for Clinical Disease: Amprolium or sulfa drugs available - consult veterinarian for proper diagnosis and dosing. Your turn: ❓What’s your biggest challenge keeping bedding dry in your setup? 💧 ❓Ever had a coccidiosis scare? What age were your birds? 🐣