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7 contributions to The Bike Fit Academy
Starting tilt for Specialized Power saddle — reference point for measurement?
Hi everyone, I’m trying to find a good starting point for the tilt of a Specialized Power Saddle, but I’m a bit confused about how the tilt should actually be measured. Different people seem to measure it in different ways: - along the entire length of the saddle (tail to nose) - only on the rear flat platform where the sit bones rest - on the first third of the saddle - on the first two-thirds - or even using the rails as a reference Because the Power has a short nose and a curved profile, these methods give very different angles. So my questions are: 1. What tilt range do you usually use as a starting point for the Power? 2. Where exactly do you place the level when measuring the angle? 3. Do you measure tail-to-nose, or only the rear support platform? Then is the Power with Mirror similar ?
0 likes • Aug 17
At least For me, the Sworks Power Evo requires far too much time and too many attempts just to obtain a reasonable starting position. I am not talking about final fine-tuning: I mean finding a basic starting tilt that does not create soft-tissue pressure. Specialized provides no clear standard setup procedure, no recommended starting tilt and no officially defined BRP—or equivalent reference point—from which the saddle angle should be measured. Considering its shape, this turns the initial setup into trial and error. At the moment, my list is almost entirely negative: - The 3D-printed padding is not more comfortable for me. - It is extremely expensive. - There is no proper official documentation for the initial setup. - There is no clearly defined reference point for measuring tilt. - Two saddles out of two developed play because the rails became detached from the shell. - It weighs roughly twice as much as the Selle Italia saddle I am now using, despite costing about twice the price. The only real advantages I can identify are the rear SWAT mount and, on the S-Works version with carbon rails, the very long usable rail section, which provides an excellent fore-aft adjustment range. By comparison, the Selle Italia came with a clearly documented setup method: I levelled the section from the BRP to the nose and immediately obtained a comfortable, stable position without soft-tissue pressure. That is the kind of usable starting point I would expect from a saddle—especially one as expensive as the Power Evo.
0 likes • Aug 21
@Matthew Dalzell I agree that body feeling is ultimately the best reference. The Power Comp/Expert and the Power Evo are very different saddles, so I don’t think the same tilt reference can simply be transferred from one to the other. For me, the Power Evo only becomes tolerable with at least about 1° nose-down, but then I end up with more weight on my hands. With the SLR, I simply installed it with the nose at 0°, it took five minutes, and from the first ride it was almost like not feeling the saddle at all. I’m sure the S-Works Power Evo is a great saddle for many people, and aesthetically I think it looks fantastic. It just doesn’t work for me, and at that price I personally don’t think it was worth the money.
Lake MX333 – Different cleat position left vs right at maximum rearward adjustment?
I’m trying to understand whether I’m missing something or if this is normal on the Lake MX333. I run my SPD cleats as far back as the shoes allow, so having the maximum rearward adjustment is important for my fit. This is actually my second pair of Lake MX333. On my previous pair, I also noticed a left/right difference, but it was more pronounced than what I’m seeing now. What I noticed is that, with both cleats positioned at the maximum rearward limit, one shoe appears to sit about 1 mm further forward relative to the pedal axle than the other. Assuming my first metatarsal is in the same anatomical position on both feet, this means the pedal axle ends up about 1 mm different relative to the first metatarsal. To verify it, I used the Ergon TP1 cleat setup tool. With both cleats fully rearward, the heel reference marks are not aligned between the two shoes, suggesting the effective cleat position differs slightly. Has anyone else with the MX333 observed this kind of left/right variation? I’m also interested to know whether anyone has experienced similar issues on other cycling shoe models, not just Lake MX333. If so, what level of manufacturing tolerance is typically expected for cleat mounting position in general?
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Anyone solved a persistent outer midfoot hotspot?
Hi everyone, I’d like to get your thoughts on an issue I’ve been dealing with for around 10 years, and that I’ve never been able to fully solve. I consistently get a hotspot on my right foot, always in exactly the same location: the outer midfoot (roughly around the cuboid / 4th-5th metatarsal area). It’s not joint pain, but a burning sensation caused by pressure that gradually builds up until it becomes uncomfortable. The pattern has always been the same: - It mainly appears during sustained efforts in Zone 3 or above, such as long climbs or steady tempo riding. - It is much more likely to happen when the temperature is above 30°C (86°F). - It rarely happens during easy rides or rides with frequent changes in intensity. - It is always on the right foot, and always in exactly the same spot. One interesting observation is that if I loosen the BOA dial and allow some air circulation around the affected area, the burning sensation disappears within a short time, even if I keep riding. Once I tighten the shoe again, it gradually comes back. Another observation is that my feet don’t behave exactly the same. Using G8 insoles, my right foot requires significantly more arch support (L3/L4), while my left foot feels comfortable with only L2. I also have a consistent difference in how I load each foot. On the left side I feel pressure distributed more evenly, with good support under the first metatarsal. On the right side I feel noticeably less pressure under the first metatarsal and a much stronger tendency to load the outside of the foot throughout the pedal stroke. What puzzles me is that over the last 10 years, almost everything has changed, yet this issue has remained. During that time I’ve changed: - multiple bikes with different geometries; - several professional bike fits; - saddle height and setback countless times; - cleat position; - completely different shoes (from narrow Sidi shoes to Lake Wide models); - different pedal systems; - several insoles, including customizable ones.
0 likes • Jul 29
@Andrew Brewin interesting and thanks for your detailed feedback. Are you saying that G8 with the lower arch support (L1) doesn’t fix the issue ? In which way the Cobra 9 is better ?
0 likes • Jul 29
which Cobra 9 model you have ?
Saddle Fore - Aft Adjustments
For years, I've been using the KOPS method of making fore-aft saddle adjustments which has yielded good results. It seems now the current practice is stepping away from the KOPS method to practicing balance, stability and position like in Neil Stansbury or Steve Hogg balance test. So, the question I have is how you would determine which method is best for the recreational cyclist?
1 like • Jun 22
In my personal experience you should feel the correct fore aft adjustment . There is no fixed rules. What you should feel: a balanced and well distributed muscles engagement (for example no quadriceps burning sensation) and you should also feel your sit bones firmly positioned on the seat without too much weight on your hands. Your seat height must be already settled and you should always make sure remain unchanged while you are changing fore aft. I suggest to start with the seat at the maximum forward position and go rearward until you feel balanced. Keep in mind that the physical limitations are the seat rails fore aft range (you can manage with a different seat or with an offset seatpost) and the bike reach because once the fore aft is settled you should understand if the reach at the handlebar is ok or too long/too short (you can manage changing the stem length in a reasonable range without compromising the bike responsiveness )
Lake shoes cleat setback – which models allow maximum rearward positioning?
Looking for input from people who’ve measured or experimented with cleat setback on Lake shoes, using the first metatarsal head and pedal axle as reference points. My current experience across different brands/models: • Sidi Wire – very limited rearward travel; I need midfoot adapter plates to reach ~16mm behind the first metatarsal. Non-Millennium lasts are even more restrictive; Millennium fit is marginally better but still insufficient. • Lake CX333 Wide – no adapter needed, but cleat slots need to be set at maximum rearward position to reach my target. No margin left, but it works without adapters. • Lake CX239 Wide – insufficient rearward travel without midfoot adapters. • Fizik MTB – excellent range of rearward travel, but too narrow for my foot. I’m now looking at the MX333 Wide for MTB and want to understand if the cleat slot geometry allows comparable setback to the CX333. Unfortunately I can’t find any spec data on actual slot length/position relative to the first metatarsal. Specifically: • Has anyone measured or compared the MX333 and CX333 in terms of maximum achievable setback? • Any other Lake MTB models worth considering that are known for generous rearward cleat travel? For context: I have a wide forefoot, need rearward positioning and am not interested in midfoot adapters as a solution.Trying to simplify my shoes setup. Thanks
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Andrea Tore
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Ultracycler Enthusiasts

Active 5d ago
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