21h • Soap Making
Essential Oil Note Chart — For Soapmaking
This chart reflects how essential oils behave in soap, especially cold process, after saponification and cure.
Top Notes (Fade Fast in Soap)
Light molecules. Smell bright at pour, often faint after cure unless anchored.
Sweet Orange
Lemon (steam distilled)
Lime (steam distilled)
Bergamot FCF
Grapefruit (FCF)
Eucalyptus (globulus, radiata)
Peppermint
Spearmint
Soap reality:
These usually fade the most. Best used with a middle or base note to help them last.
Middle Notes (Soap Workhorses)
Moderate volatility. These form the core scent of most soaps.
Lavender
Rosemary
Geranium
Clary Sage
Cypress
Tea Tree
Juniper Berry
Cardamom
Soap reality:
Middle notes survive cure better and give structure to a blend. Many “single EO” soaps rely on these.
Base Notes (Anchors in Soap)
Heavy molecules. Evaporate slowly and help hold other scents.
Patchouli
Vetiver
Cedarwood (Atlas, Virginian)
Sandalwood (true or sustainable alternatives)
Benzoin (resinoid)
Amyris
Frankincense (resin-rich types hold better)
Soap reality:
Even a small amount can dramatically improve scent longevity in CP soap.
Important Soapmaking Clarifications
Note category does NOT change with percentage
Using more lavender doesn’t make it a base note — it stays a middle note.
Ratios affect dominance, not chemistry
A 60/40 blend only changes what your nose notices first.
Soap is harsh on scent
Heat, alkalinity, and long cure times mean some oils behave very differently than in candles or perfumes.
Balanced blends last longer
Top + middle + base usually outlast single-note or top-heavy blends.
Example (Soap Context)
Lavender + Rosemary
Lavender = middle note
Rosemary = middle note
No matter the ratio, this is a middle–middle blend.
It will smell lovely but may benefit from a small base note if longevity is important.
Safety reminder (non-negotiable):
Always calculate usage rates for soap and IFRA categories. Understanding scent structure helps blending — it never replaces EO safety calculations.
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Essential Oil Note Chart — For Soapmaking
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